“Deconstructed” has become such a buzzword in fashion circles it’s only right that the collarless shirt – arguably a trailblazer of this genre, with its stiff collar designed to be removed and washed separately – is now making fashion headlines, with new designs spanning easy-chic linens to smart occasion wear, and folky bohemian patterns to cool contemporary prints.
For Jermyn Street shirtmaker Emma Willis, the very act of removing the collar is “a relatively rebellious act in the shirt world that renders the shirt cooler and less formal”. Willis’s latest refined examples of “grandad” shirts (the Irish name) include those in denim-blue Italian linen with a placket (£290), a gutsy antique navy Bengal-stripe Italian linen (£290), and white or deep-blue Irish linens with a flat front and “speed hems” (£290) – which “give a shallow, more gentle curve than the longer tails you tuck in,” Willis explains. “There’s also no gusset at the side, so they look good worn outside trousers.”
- Tom Stubbs