‘Brands to look out for, these are the labels that have made their name out of doing it better than anyone.’ – Matchesfashion

Cashmere Ties

Voyage Collection

The Swiss mill we use has been extremely creative in the last year, developing many beautiful new weaves and weights of cottons using state of the arts technology but producing with care for the environment and blessed with an abundance of water from their mountains for the final process. Each month, starting with The Voyage this January, I will let you know about a new cotton, how it is woven and finished ( for instance they even use different mountain water for different constructions ) and whether cooler or warmer to wear.  Each new cotton will be available to order for shirts, boxer shorts, pyjamas or dressing gowns in the gentle blue, white, pink and lilac palette of designs that Alumo and I so love.

Voyage is a new very breathable cotton developed by Alumo to create a natural 100% cotton which is almost crease free so ideal for travelling.

Alumo says: The method applied to the fabric is called ‘moisture cross-linking’, implementing small resin bridges in the single fibres which prevents the fabric from from swelling.  Due to the tiny, almost untraceable net of bridges , the cotton maintains a natural feel, breathability and absorbance, but will crease much less. ( The finishing meets the ecological, environmental and anti chemical Öko-tex Standard 100 ) 

Washing instruction: 60 degrees, low level of spinning tours after washing so that the fabric still has a certain amount of humidity within. Hang it still damp over a hanger and let it dry. Iron the seams, collar and cuffs.

Click to shop the Collection

Christie Brinkley wears our White Oxford Cotton shirt for the cover of FN

For the first in our 10 Year Anniversary film series, The Rake looks at the rise of Emma Willis, one of Jermyn Street’s finest bespoke shirtmakers.

In an 18th century townhouse, nestled in the heart of Gloucester, hangs a series of black-framed photographs, all with a common theme: Emma Willis, shaking hands with a plethora of high-profile people. The moments are symbolic of the successes Emma has enjoyed as one of the UK’s most prestigious shirtmakers, as well as someone who’s used that acclaim to give back.

It was high profile customers that helped Emma’s business initially grow. Having worked for other menswear companies, she launched her own label in 1989, focusing on bespoke shirts made in England from the finest materials. Personally travelling to homes or places of work, she built up strong relationships with customers, who’d then refer her to their equally high profile friends, quickly developing a client book bursting with reputable names.

It wasn’t until 2000 that Emma opened her store on Jermyn St, where she immediately stood out in an area dominated by male-led brands. She used this as an advantage, adding a delicate flair to menswear, which has become the brand’s signature. “I don’t tend to like the really bold, masculine look at the very traditional end of British shirtmaking,” says Emma, from the cosy basement of her flagship store. “So it’s probably a softer look, slightly less formal. Even if it’s a linen shirt or a brushed cotton shirt, you still make it with equal care. One, it can still be bespoke, and two, you can make it with as much care and trouble as you would with your formal business shirt. So I think that combination is quite characteristic of us too.”

Of course, another value Emma holds in high regard is material, which is sourced from Italy, Switzerland and Ireland. “I’ve used the same mill in Switzerland for 25 years – they’re absolutely superb. It’s called Alumo, and most of our shirts are made from their cottons which are woven using the highest quality Egyptian Giza 45 or West Indian Sea Island raw cotton. And then for the more creative and casual fabric like linen, I would go to Italy, and Irish linens are beautiful too.”

Country Life – Huw Edwards ‘A few of my favourite things.’

Emma interviewed in the Guardian Weekend magazine today

Click to view online 








‘What men really want for Christmas, from barbershop shaves to bespoke suiting.’ – The Telegraph









Custom made shirts from £290, Emma Willis

As the item that every man probably wears most, a shirt is also an informed place to start in the world of bespoke. Excellent British brands such as Drake’s and Emma Willis offer custom-made shirting services. Italian shirtmaking brand Apposta also runs a subscription service online whereby your shirt can be crafted to your specific measurements and specifications – round collar or pointed etc – and delivered to you as a one-off gift or every month.

Editor’s Picks, Gentleman’s Journal

Button it: Emma Willis Navy Cashmere Polo

Editor’s Picks: Sir Plus Pyjamas, Coffee Alarm Clock and Whisky Blending Kit

There are few garments as versatile as the long-sleeved polo. And Emma Willis’ offering, in cashmere no less, is one of the best. Knitted using traditional methods on the Scottish borderlands, this raw cashmere polo is washed in the waters that run alongside the mill before you slip it on. Stylish, timeless and sublimely soft.

How our beautiful Swiss cotton is spun and woven.

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